May 26: Northern Excursion

Today was our excursion to see some of the sights of Northern Jordan.

1) On the way to Irbid, our first site was the Yabbok River/Zarqa River (نهر الزرقاء/nahr az-Zarqaa'). At this site, the Hebrew Patriarch Jacob is said to have wrestled with an angel sent by God in the night until the morning. God then renamed Jacob Isra'el which means "the one who fights with (isra) God ('el)". A boy at the site offered horse rides to some of us. Overall a pretty lowkey sight.

2) Our second "site" was driving through the city of Irbid, which is the second largest city in Jordan after Amman. As we drove in, we passed by the town called Al Husn (الحصن) which rapidly expanded from Palestinian refugees. The city of Irbid, much like Amman, is spread out and sprawls across a huge area which short and squat buildings. Irbid seemed to have a bit more color to it though. It featured less Western-style buildings and commercial centers and more of the type of roadside shops found in much of Jordan outside Amman with colorful signs. It felt like someone took the small towns of Jordan, and smushed a dozen of them into one area to create Irbid. Despite the size and population, Irbid still had the small town feel. Granted, we never actually left the bus and didn't see anything looking like a downtown, and perhaps if we did that I'd have a very different impression of the city.

3) Our third site was the Reef Umm Qais Resort. For whatever reason this place had a surreal feel to it. The resort was in the middle of nowhere, without a single other building in sight. It was surrounded by fields of grass, crops, and poppies. Beyond that were the mountains of Israel and the Golan Heights. The resort had brightly colored canopies for eating lunch. From an observation tower, we could see Israel, Palestine and Syria in the distance. It probably felt more surreal considering I just woke up from a nap when we stepped off the bus. Lunch was chicken with labneh, along with rice and tabbouleh.

4) Our fourth site was Umm Qais itself. Umm Qais is an ancient city that was formerly known as Gedara/Jedara/جدارا in Roman/Byzantine times. Later, Ottoman governors took up residence in part of the city, leaving their mark on the ruins. Umm Qais also is very close to international borders. From one point, we could see Israel, Palestine, the Sea of Galilee, Lebanon, Syria (including the cradle of the Syrian Uprising that led to the Syrian Civil War Dera'a) and possibly even territory controlled by ISIS. Places like Umm Qais remind me that so many world-changing events happened in the same region, and in a place on a much smaller scope than that of America. Jericho, Jerusalem, Damascus, Beirut, Amman, Irbid, etc. were one region until it was divided in 1918. This region is the Promised Land of the Israelites, the birthplace of the Phoenicians, home of the Decapolis (a group of ten major cities in Greek and Roman times), the battlefields between the Byzantines and Muslims, the Crusaders and Muslims, home to centers of learning and culture in various Caliphates, the site of Mongol Conquests, the site of one of the most enduring, complicated conflicts of the modern era between Israel and Palestine. This is a land holy to 2.5-3 billion people, more than a third of the entire world. This land has had thousands of years of civilization, with some cities being continuously inhabited since prehistory. From our vantage point at Umm Qais, it was incredible to think that just beyond the serene and majestic mountains we saw in Syria, the most complicated and brutal war of recent history is being waged with no end in sight. This whole country was once united. Now, one section of it descends into anarchy, while the section we stand in happens to be stable.

5) Our fifth "site" was our ride along the Jordan-Golan Heights border. The Golan Heights is de jure part of Syria, but has been occupied by Israel since 1967. The region is effectively Israel. Nothing separates the two countries but the Yarmouk River. The river once must've been mighty enough to carve out the valley in which is lies now. But today, it is so small that, at some points, it was blocked from our view by trees and tall grass. The border looked unpatrolled, like I could just hop over to Israel without any resistance, yet it is one of the most heavily guarded borders in the world, using a lot of electronic surveillance and hidden military personnel. Along the way, we could see the remains of a bridge crossing the river valley. This bridge once was part of the Hejaz railroad that connected the Ottoman capital at Istanbul to Mecca. After the British mandate was established, the railroad fell into disrepair and the bridge no longer stands.

6) Our sixth site was Jesus' Cave, where he supposedly spent 40 days fasting with followers and disciples. This sight was just announced a few months ago. The cave is also the sight of an oil press, where simple technology was elegantly used to make olive oil and wine.

7) Our seventh and last site was the home of our travel guide Nidal. Nidal al-Zannad is a member of the Bani Issa (بني عيسى, literally "sons of Jesus") tribe in the Al-Zannad family. In many Arab countries, including Jordan, tribes continue to play a large role in society. The tribe serves as an identity for an individual, a network in work and social life, and a support system in times of need. Nidal took us to the meeting house of his tribe (ديوان عشيرة بني عيسى) to speak about the subject. He emphasized that in Jordan, religious tolerance is the norm. He explained that although most Jordanians today are Muslims, before Islam they were Christian, and before Jesus they were Jews. Jordanians see their Christian and Jewish neighbors and understand that they are the same people with the same ancestors. His tribe's name, Bani Issa, emphasizes this point by showing their connection to Jesus, even as Muslims. He emphasizes the importance of Jesus to Muslims as a prophet and as a figure to emulate, similarly to Christianity (although with some differences). 

He explained that in Jordan, society is much less individualistic than in America and much more communal. Significant decisions have to be approved by leaders and other members of the tribe. Nidal said if he wanted to leave Jordan, he could not do so without the approval of his father, who leads the Al-Zannad family in Bani Issa. The tribe also makes decisions communally, for the good of the community. With over 9000 members, the tribe created spaces like the meeting house to gather. People contribute equally for projects that benefit all. The meeting house cost each member 250 JD, but they now have an event space for meetings, weddings, funerals, celebrations, etc. It shows the wealth and the community of Bani Issa. The tribe also serves as a very extensive network. Nidal has cousins who are in the Police Force, engineers, etc. that he can call upon. One of the speakers on our program, Dr. Badr al-Madi of the Royal Court is also a member of Bani Issa, and was connected to us through Nidal. In addition, in times of need, an individual of the tribe can call upon the support of the 9000 other members, with the understanding that such help with be given to everyone in the tribe as well. And when someone dies, thousands attend the funeral from the tribe. However, leaving the tribe, through conduct or decisions that goes against the will of the tribe, will result in being cut off from this support system. Nidal emphasized the depth of tribal bonds and familial bonds that was expected in Jordanian culture and the communal nature of Jordanian society. This emphasis in Jordanian culture far exceeds what I'm used to in American culture that is focused on the individual, and in my own experience where my extended family lives thousands of miles away in a foreign country and foreign culture.

We went to his family's home for dinner and music. Hospitality is a major value in Arab culture in general. We were served magloubeh, tabbouleh, and labneh. One man, Leith, played the Oudh for us, while other brothers played the doumbek and a Jordanian reed instrument. People also danced, including dabkeh. It was a serendipitous night, and we learned a great deal about what it means to be a Jordanian.